1/18 scale F-16CJ Fighting Falcon Block 52 HAF

Başlatan: Nick_Karatzides · Başlangıç: 2009-06-06 10:08:12 · 30 mesaj · Son mesaj: 2009-09-23 18:52:27

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-06-13 15:48:48 · #70909

Once the chalk is fully dissolved into the water/soap mixture it is time to "paint" this mixture on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area. "Painting" the mixture is simple - just apply it anywhere it is needed to darken recessed detail. The mixture can be applied carelessly, because any mistakes can be completely removed and redone.

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When the chalk wash dried, I rubbed off the high spots with a slightly damp dry (not wet) Q-Tip cotton swab (Kleenex papers can be also used) and I wiped the dark color from the areas should be light colored. The high spots were cleaned to the basic finish and the low spots were left black. I did the chalk wash on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area in about 15 minutes which makes it a very quick and effective technique. You can also read about this into Steve Bamford's article, by clicking HERE.

Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points. If you follow this method, it is adviced to not rinse out the wash container till you are finished this job. You will probably be touching up certain spots a few times, so it helps if you're not mixing up a new chalk mixture each time because you kept cleaning out your container of the chalk wash mixture. I repeated the the wash process with lighter colors where needed. Using micro cotton batons found into cosmetic shop for less than 1£, I applied some lighter colors such as yellow, white, sand, brown, burned iron etc & also black chalk pastel powder on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area, to make it look weathered and extensively used. I repeated the weathering process until it satisfied me and finally I sprayed a clear coat to seal the chalk powder in place.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img11.imagehosting.gr/out.php/i1363132_image-0122.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2010-04-04 04:35:33

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-06-20 16:22:38 · #71005

The F-16's hot air exhaust of the ECS (Environment Condition System) comes in two different shapes. The old A/B types come with small cover. Here is the way it is covered nowdays on newest Block 52s F-16C/D. The basic shape of the ECS cover made by plastic card and the air exhaust detail will be added later.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img2.pict.com/87/bf/91/944146/0/f16badge.jpg][Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img2.pict.com/25/7e/f8/944150/0/f16block52haf.gif][Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img2.pict.com/ab/83/92/944148/0/343rdsquadronbadge.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2009-06-25 07:00:00

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-06-20 16:25:29 · #71006

The F-16's hot air exhaust of the ECS (Environment Condition System) comes in two different shapes. The old A/B types come with small cover. Here is the way it is covered nowdays on newest Block 52s F-16C/D. The basic shape of the ECS cover made by plastic card and the air exhaust detail will be added later.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img11.imagehosting.gr/out.php/i1363167_image-0125.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2010-04-04 04:34:30

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-06-23 23:13:01 · #71013

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-07-07 22:49:35 · #71076

Using 0.75mm drill, a single hole opened on the air intake tube, to later host a pitot sensor which is normally can be found just before the engine's intake fan. This drilling should be done now, before connecting the main landing gear bay construction with lower part of F-16's surface and the pitot sensor will be placed later.

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The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with ZAP cyanoacrylate super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:

It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,

it does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,

you can pour to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,

you can also put additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,

you can sand it, you can drill it, you can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem,

can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally...

it is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.

Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.

Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img11.imagehosting.gr/out.php/i1363196_image-0149.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2010-04-04 04:31:48

Burak Özdil · 2009-07-08 03:17:54 · #71080

Excellent details & work Nick,

Blackbird · 2009-07-08 04:33:38 · #71082

Seems extremely realistic...

purdey · 2009-07-08 13:43:47 · #71086

Bu makedin yapım aşamalarını halen web de mevcut hemen bütün modelcilik sitelerinden "simultaneously" takip edebilirsiniz.Bence bu enformasyon çabası takdire değer.

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-07-11 17:46:16 · #71120

The main landing gear possessors basic lines were copied from the T.O manual, lined out with green ink marker and later cut 'n' drilled from white plastic card. Blueprint copies enlarged to 1/18 scale, were used to cut the possessors on exact shape & size and later set into place.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img11.imagehosting.gr/out.php/i1363200_image-0153.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2010-04-04 04:28:22

orko_8 · 2009-07-12 04:16:26 · #71123

Hats off to you Nick, that's one hell of a modeling quest!

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-07-14 06:06:22 · #71148

Starting to place cables, actuators, fractional DC motors, hydraulic lines, securing hooks & stuff into the model's main landing gear bay. It may look quite empty now, but everything will be in place and look realistic as the project continues.

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[Harici görsel; otomatik yüklenmez: http://img11.imagehosting.gr/out.php/i1363207_image-0160.jpg]Nick_Karatzides2010-04-04 04:27:28

Nick_Karatzides · 2009-09-23 18:52:27 · #71889