Since I had already brought myself into 1/35 “troubles”, I got the FDCV scale model directly from White Tower Models company, based in Thessaloniki, Greece. Mr. Christos Simitsis, who is the White Tower Models founder, produced some polyester resin scale model kits such as…

[*]1/35 scale Mistral A/A missile launching base,
[*]1/35 scale FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle,
[*]1/35 scale Mercedes Benz 240GD G-wagen 4x4 vehicle,
[*]1/35 scale conversion kits for Leopard 1 A4/GR1/A5/V,
[*]1/35 scale Leonidas I & II IFV - Infantry Fighting Vehicle,

...and other scale products since early 1990ies. Today, almost 20 years after first public release of the 1/35 scale FDCV model, the White Tower Models continues to product very few kits & sell selectively mostly to friends. Mr. Christos Simitsis, named his White Tower Models company after the White Tower, which is the trade mark monument and museum, located on the waterfront of the city of Thessaloniki, Greece. Some pictures of mediaeval White Tower monument, as seen behind a statue of King Philip II, father of Alexander the Great - the most famous Greek ever.











Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 03:18

CHAPTER I - Polyester resin preparation & cleaning
Since I had to accept that this stupid bet I lost, could compare like Hell become frozen, I should keep my promise before El Diablo himself got aware and switch on the heaters again. I really hate it. I even tried to avoid it by all means, I used every possible and impossible excuse, but the answer was “NO”! In short, I’m in deep sh!t and I have to complete building process. Pacta sunt servanda…


While I was inspecting the resin pieces, I noticed some marks on the surface of polyester, which looked like raised stains as defects in the casting mold. Fortunately my scale modeling mentors trained me well and I was prepared for such situations. Obviously, these marks were the remains of the liquid chemical used in the preparation of polyester resin and it's not unusual in such kits. Keeping in mind that the polyester resin chemical composition is such that can be cleaned by nitrocellulose lacquer thinner, without harming the structure, I decided to use nitrocellulose lacquer thinner to clean up locally. The nitrocellulose lacquer thinner cleaning method described below and shown in the following pictures, should never be applied on plastic injection molded kits, because the results would be disastrous and your model will become like a chewed gum.




My good friend Demitris “Jagdpanther” Pravinos, who is a WWII German armoured vehicles specialist and dedicated scale modeller, sent me few hundreds cups (actually spray canister caps) he found and looked ideal to use them for mixing colours, modelling putty etc. Few drops of nitrocellulose lacquer thinner were just enough. Using a cotton swab, I spread the nitrocellulose lacquer thinner on target stain, rubbed and the chemical were magically dissolved, leaving completely intact the surface of polyester resin and the kit detail. The result can be noticed into following pictures. Same technique was applied to other parts of the kit where chemical residues observed treatment of polyester resin.












Keep in mind that use of preventive measures, such as in disposable surgical gloves from latex, masks with similar filters to protect against possible fumes, etc. is always recommended during handling epoxy resins materials or resin powder contact. These nasty materials are not too very friendly to our health. Taking care of our health is a serious factor that should not be left to chance, not to challenge the lungs or the finger skin! I personally recommend to wear a coverall suit to protect your clothes and keep polyester or epoxy resin dust ‘n’ chips away. Some people might say “too much”, but nobody wants to convey polyester or epoxy resin dust ‘n’ chips and other dangerous carcinogenic filings found on our modelling bench in the family’s living room and into the arms of loved ones.

Few small holes were spotted on the polyester resin kit, obviously due to bubbles created during the casting process. Fortunately, these small spots were observed only on the inside part of the polyester resin kit and these holes were not big enough to reach the outer side. However, because I didn’t want to risk any future unpleasant surprises, I thought as a nice idea to fill the area with epoxy filler. Keep in mind, that few months or years after casting, the polyester resin becomes fully polymerized and gets so hardened, that it’s easy to break like a glass. The possibility that the slightest vibration during scale model’s transport could create a crack starting from the point inside the bubble and leading to the outer surface of the model, is always present.


These small holes were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:

[*]It becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
[*]It does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
[*]It can be poured to any shape that you want but you need to work fast because as soon as you mix it with catalyst cream approx 5%, you have limited time before becoming solid rock,
[*]Additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler can also build up,
[*]It can be sawed, sanded, drilled etc and is compatible with any type of scale modelling glue & any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint with no problem at all,
[*]It can be purchased at any good crafts store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and if you can't find it, fear not and try your local decent hardware store and finally...
[*]It is cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strength etc.

Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110°, but better watch out.







Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 03:44

CHAPTER III - Chassis building & structure supporting
As long I decide to build the kit straight from the box, without interior details and keeping all hatches closed, I placed a styrene plastic sheet to keep driver's hatch isolated. The reason will be explained later.




The HPX, is one of the most durable adhesive tape that can be found on the local market. It is vinyl reinforced multi-purpose pressure sensitive tape with a soft and flexible shell and pressure sensitive adhesive. It is generally silver or black in color but many other colors have recently become available. With a standard width of 50mm (approx 2 inches) & 0.30mm thickness, water resistant & withstand temperature ranges from Fahrenheit -40° to Fahrenheit 203° is ideal for special purposes. It is constructed from a rubber-based adhesive to help the tape resist water and a fabric backing to add strength. Keep in mind that US Military issued this hard duty adhesive tape to their personnel who keep it in their pack and use it in numerous cases, such as repairing scratches, temporarily taping holes on aircrafts or helicopters fuselage, ammo canisters sealing, repairing military equipment (including firearms) quickly etc. Click HERE for aircraft repair with adhesive tape example. In military circles, this variant is known as "gun-tape", typically olive-green, and also known for its resistance to oils and greases. It is also called "Riggers Tape", "Hurricane Tape", or "100-mph tape" - a name that comes from the use of a specific variety of duct tape that was supposed to hold up to 100 mph winds. Another version attributes this to the fact that soldiers often refer to something that exceeds expectations as "High Speed". The HEX tape is commercially sold as high-strength adhesive tape for sealing tire tubes aquifers.


Before trying to connect FDCV’s main chassis, I stretched tape inside the two halves. As it is known, polyester loses its elasticity and becomes harder, several months or years after casting and vibrations could cause cracking. The polyester made models do not have the durability of plastic because the different chemical composition and molecular bonds of each material. Over time, polyester behaves like glass, although it has toughness, but any hard vibration could cause crack or even worse shattering. Placing HPX durable adhesive tape inside, would hold the spread of a possible crack in the future, provide the opportunity to fix and save the scale model. In all other cases, the polyester fragments would be lost. Placing HPX durable adhesive tape inside, is the first of few precautionary measures taken for the integrity of the material. The next and most important precautionary measure, will be described into following paragraphs.



Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 04:20

As noted before, polyester loses its elasticity over time and the slightest shock, bang or hard vibration during model transporting may cause a crack. To reduce the danger of such an unfortunate situation and as a part of precautionary measures to strengthen the structure of the polyester model, I decided it would be nice to fill the internal model with the material that should be:

[*]Solid and able to occupy all the available volume inside the model, supporting internally the walls of the polyester model,
[*]As light as possible to avoid model’s total weight increasing that could strain the wheel polyester arms,
[*]Hard, but not completely rigid, that can absorb vibrations & shocks and able to transmit vibrations soflty, throughout model’s mass and not on a single point.

This material is called polyurethane foam. It is a unique industrial material which has excellent physical, mechanical and environmental properties and is mainly used as insulation material. It offers high abrasion resistance, tensile stress, impact resistance etc. The fact that the polyurethane foam material can be easily cut, sawed, sanded, drilled etc and is compatible with most types of scale modelling glue & any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint with no problem at all, makes it a good choice for many scale modelling applications, as for example in diorama building.


I got one polyurethane foam spray canister with the trigger & tube to inject the material, from my local hardware store. Because cleaning the plastic injecting tube would be quite difficult when the polyurethane foam begins to be polymerized after contact with air, I cut the plastic pipe and replaced it with a straw which I threw out after each use.










Before channelling the polyurethane foam inside scale model, a preparation should be applied to achieve best possible results and to avoid any unpleasant surprises. I chose as the point from which will channel the polyurethane foam, the only opened hatch - the crew commander’s hatch. This is why I closed driver’s hatch, not to let polyurethane foam escape from there. Masking tape 50mm width, applied to cover the upper surface of the FDCV and protect it from possible polyurethane foam overflow.






Injecting polyurethane foam needs full attention and should not exaggerate the filling quantity because it takes time that can reach up to 2 hours from the application of the material to swell and solidify. According to the instructions on the spray canister, the best results are achieved when sprayed successive small amounts of foam and wait to swell and partially occupy all the available volume inside the model. Considering that the expanding polyurethane can multiply the original foam volume up to 4 times, it would be very appropriate to inject small quantities, allow time to swell and since we are confident that it has solidified and will not change over its volume, to continue the process with successive small amounts of foam. To conclude the process, I began to inject small amounts of polyurethane foam, first in the more distant spots, such as the front left or front right under the engine’s compartment etc. After the 2-3 small doses of injectable foam placed in appropriate locations, I wait enough time (over 6 hours) to swell smooth polyurethane and cover the internal volume without endangering the vessel to deform or break (worst scenario) from inside out, under high pressure on walls. Then, I added 1-2 more doses of polyurethane foam to the rear part, being careful to inject small amounts and let the material to expand slowly or escape if necessary, from the crew commander’s hatch.




As you can see into following picture, it seems I was lucky, because while material expanding, the polyurethane foam managed to find a way out and despite a little leaking from the driver's hatch. Although, the contact with air was quick and material became solid before escaping to the outside, covering the panel lines and kit details.


After 3-4 small doses of polyurethane foam, with several hours stall time between injections, the material properly inflated and occupied all the available volume of the scale model’s interior. Because of wrong calculations during last injection, polyurethane foam escaped from the nearest (and only) way out - the crew commander’s hatch. Fortunately, this was the last dose and the excess was removed quickly with a spatula, while having established such a case, the protective coating of the outer surface with masking tape, proved thoughtful choice.






After the last dose of polyurethane foam hardened, the excess material overflow from the driver's and crew commander’s hatches were removed carefully, using No 11 blade on modeling knife.




With the method described in the previous paragraphs, I achieved to:

[*]Fill the interior of the FDCV scale model with foam that can absorb vibrations and distribute throughout the mass of polyester,
[*]Apply a hard duty adhesive tape across the inner surface, to hold united the shattered parts of polyester if ever broken.

The above protection measures, are not necessary (and possibly not recommended) for use on 99% of commercial kits marketed. The polyester material specificity however and the possible danger to break after few months or years, after losing its elasticity and becoming harder and inflexible (and therefore fragile), enforce these protecting measures to ensure better luck VS possible shock hits & hard vibrations during scale model transport.

Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 04:22

With the FDCV scale model hull closed and the track chains cleaned by the polyester excess, I tried water sanding to ensure that connecting lines would disappear. The track chains were also slightly sanded on selected points, to get all the track teeth on the exact same level. When I was satisfied, I spray a primer light layer to prepare for painting and to highlight any deficiencies that had escaped my attention.






As shown in the photo above, I use two different primer products for preparation of scale models before painting, depending on each case.

[*]The first is the Hycote acrylic primer. Available in 2-3 different colours, shades of grey (for general use paint) and black (primer before painting with metallic paints Alclad II) and textures in matte or glossy. The price cost aprox 7 euros in local Greek market and spray canister contains 400 ml. IMHO, the Hycote primer’s main advantage, is that the chemical composition is such that it leaves the feeling that can be applied on model without covering details. It is very fine, it dries within minutes, but it’s rare to find.
[*]The second is the Humbrol acrylic primer. If I am not mistaken, it is available in 2-3 different colours, shades of grey (for general use paint) and black (primer before painting with metallic paints Alclad II). The price is aprox 6 euros in local Greek market and spray and the canister contains 150 ml. While using, I noticed that the Humbrol primer is sprayed under higher pressure propellant, and this effect was observed in different spray canisters. When dry, leaves a sense of rough surface on the model, perhaps a bit more than I prefer, but I guess it’s perfect when applying primer on AFVs to be given a sense of cast metal. Humbrol primer is a good choice for general purpose primer, but I would prefer Hycote for fine results, without any spray paint grains.

Finally, regarding the price / quantity matter, the Hycote primer costs 7 euros in local Greek market for a 400 ml canister (1.75 euro per 100 ml), while the Humbrol product costs 6 euros in local Greek market for a 150 ml canister (4 euro per 100 ml).

For only 12 euros, I bought a new SkyTronic minitool product which operates from 0V to 12V voltage and contains 60 different parts including drills from 0.4mm to 1.5mm diameter, cutting discs, abrasive brushes, etc. According to the manual, it spins up to 16 000 rpm and is compatible with various calibers shaft head. The only modification I did, was to remove the factory cable and install spiral cable (which I find more practical) that I connected with the 0-12V voltage dimmer adapter on my workbench.








I cut the track wheels from the polyester tree and sand each one of them, by using the high speed spinning minitool. As soon as all the track wheels were trimmed as required, they were placed on exact position.













Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 04:53

I used ordinary gauze cloth, taken from the first aid kit, cut it to shape and place it on FDCV upper surface, to simulate the camouflage net. Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2€ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I formed the gauze net with a wet brush, into the desired shape. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, the gauze net becomes hard when the water dries.













Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 05:07

I believe that the basic CARC FS34079 “Leaf Green” colour, can be simulated with the Humbrol's H116 or Gunze Sangyo's GSH309. Because I had something different in mind and I was hoping to present more than one color tones on model's surface, I tried the FS34094 "Bronze Green" which is available by Life Color as UA303 acrylic and also got the UA706 and UA210 by Life Color too, for the basic CARC color fading and darkening mixtures.




Using the SLC - Scale Lighting effect Calculator program, I placed as basic colour the FS34079 (RGB code 62x68x54) and set parameters such as 1/35 scale, appearance of model’s surface in a scale from a “new - just painted” level to “old - paints are fade” level, according to what I had in mind, etc. The program, draw results (for example RGB code 84x90x77 which is close to FS34094) as suggested 13% scale lighting paint for the model, considering the scale effect and the mid-weathered appearance I set as data. Offcourse, the high lighted or intentional faded areas, will be enlighted more, using sand tones.



Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 05:26

The first base very diluted acrylic color was sprayed with no problem as a light layer and let dry overnight. As seen on the pictures, the black enamel preshading lines, are visible under the first applied color setting a base for the weathering process.











Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 05:28

CHAPTER VII - Display base & grass
I found nice idea to place it on a display base, simulating a field area covered with grass. From my local store, I bought a 20x30cm polished wooden picture frame.


I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water with a syringe into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement, plaster remains quite soft after drying and this characteristic make plaster suitable for the job. Keep in mind that adding salt into wet plaster mixture, reduce the plaster's hardening time and adding vinegar into wet plaster mixture, extend the plaster's hardening time. When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on the picture frame, a glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast.










I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.




Before the plaster cast got harden, I formed the field area into the desired shape to be suitable for the FDCV scale model. I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a dark and light earth colours, spraying from different directions and angles. Later, the field was drybrushed on selected areas using sand tones.





Düzenleyen Nick_Karatzides - 20/08/2014 Saat 05:56